Paying Attention to the Basics…

Years ago, people bathed and washed their hair once a week.  Typically, they used a lye-based soap made from ashes and animal fat.  Those with long hair struggled to comb through the tangled “nest” created by the weekly cleansing ritual.   To ease the comb out process the hair would be rinsed with vinegar.  The result:  an improved comb-out and shine…yet hair which was still difficult to manage and the scalp often flaky and irritated.

Creative changes brought us out of pioneer times to the present day where professional hair salons emerged as leaders with new products that were gentler on the hair and scalp.  It was suggested that hair could be washed more than once a week, even daily!  Specific formulas were developed for various types of hair and scalp conditions which produced predictable and desired outcomes:  luxurious, natural looking hair with increased shine and manageability. Jim King and Richard Hegener of Custom Formulations, Inc began formulating professional hair care products in the 1970’s with the goal of educating salon owners and stylists about product chemistry.  Through understanding product chemistry and by listening to their clients, the stylists could wisely choose product formulations for specific hair and scalp conditions. Clients who were satisfied with the outcome of their salon visit would be able to produce the same results at home using the product formulas designed specifically for their hair type.

Formulas?  Chemistry?  Let’s begin with a basic question: 

What is pH and does understanding pH matter?

The pH (parts of hydrogen) scale ranges from 0 to 14…0 being acidic and 14 being alkaline.  The amount of hydrogen in a solution determines whether it is more acidic or alkaline.  The transition point where a solution shifts from acid to alkaline is 7.  Normal hair and skin has a pH between 4.5 and 5.5.

Remember the old-time lye soap?  With a pH of 8 or 9, this solution would cause the cuticles on the hair shaft to raise up and make the hair tangle and appear dull and decrease manageability.

Remember the vinegar rinse?  While its pH of 2 or 3 caused the hair cuticles to flatten and increase manageability and shine, the vinegar acid rinse did not soften or condition the hair.

The result?  Dull, hard to manage, unruly hair and a flaky, itchy scalp.

Today, custom formulated shampoos and conditioners are gentle and safe, resulting in vibrant natural looking hair and a healthy scalp.  Why? The formulated shampoos are slightly acidic, protecting the cuticle and retaining moisture in the hair shaft.  A conditioner, slightly acidic on the pH scale, chosen based on the existing condition of the hair, softens the hair and creates a vibrant shine and increased manageability.  In other words, specially formulated shampoos and conditioners can reverse damage done and increase the natural appearance and luster of the hair.  In future blog posts, we will explain our formulations and how they are designed for specific hair and scalp conditions, so that they consumer may choose hair products which promote healthy hair and scalp, and achieve the shine, fullness, manageability, and color desired.